• Competitor rules

    Please remember that any mention of competitors, hinting at competitors or offering to provide details of competitors will result in an account suspension. The full rules can be found under the 'Terms and Rules' link in the bottom right corner of your screen. Just don't mention competitors in any way, shape or form and you'll be OK.

The Radeon RX 6900/6950 XT Owners Thread.

Caporegime
Joined
12 Jul 2007
Posts
40,522
Location
United Kingdom
Much point chopping in the 6800xt for a 6900xt? I game at res 3440 ultra wide, only play tarkov at the moment though
Not familiar with that game, but in GPU limited scenarios the 6900 XT will be up to 12% faster than the 6800 XT, if both GPUs have an identical power limit, fan speed, voltage, etc. This can drop to 10% depending on the game.

Call of Duty Black Ops Cold War
5120x1440
Max Settings, with RT/Blur and Film Grain off
2500Mhz/2100Mhz with Fast timings

6800 XT
KvCpqFG.jpg


6900 XT
xm1NJqr.jpg

6900 XT 12% faster.

You need to decide if that 10-12% is worth it to you.

If you are not GPU bound or a game is poorly optimised, you will probably see less of a performance increase.
 
Soldato
Joined
7 Dec 2010
Posts
8,241
Location
Leeds
Thanks! How do I make a clean install a 10 minute process?

I've really not been using windows very much since 2008, until this April 2021 (I have been a MacBook guy for 15 years). I decided to build a Gaming PC after watching YouTube Linus Tech Tips, Gamers Nexus, Hardware Unboxed, and Jaztwocents for a year.

With Mac I can reinstall Mac OS on top of the old Mac OS while booted into "recovery mode" to fix a problem, and all of my apps and data are still working like normal when I'm done. I don't know enough about Windows 10 to do a fresh install AND also keep all my apps and logins intact at the same time.

I've done a fresh install a couple of times in the past, but I always end up with an empty start menu and having to re-install the apps that were still taking up drive space along with the old windows folder. I basically had to reinstall all of the windows apps all over again, then login to all of the apps and accounts again, and finally try to figure out what to do with the old windows folder. This takes more than 10 minutes, so I must be doing it wrong. I use a lot of streaming apps that make me sign-in or authenticate them via an external web link and it's time consuming to set them all back up.

If I recall (correct me if I'm wrong), with my Steam games I can just install the Steam app, log in, and point it to the old steam library on Drive C or D. But with Apps from Microsoft store or downloaded from vendors, I'd have to reinstall them and sign back into them. I do have all the installers from 3rd party vendors saved on a backup drive, as well as I built a new Windows Media Installer USB flash drive two weeks ago for doing a new install if needed. I also have an Acronis True Image USB boot drive for making clones and/or backups. All my data is safe on OneDrive and Dropbox.


Why don't you try reseting windows 10 back to factory settings. Threw the reset feature in windows 10 first ? It's quicker than a reinstall.

You can read how here :-
https://www.pcmag.com/how-to/factory-reset-windows-10
 
Last edited:
Associate
Joined
4 Jun 2021
Posts
77
Location
Rocky Mountains USA
Download Windows ISO and copy to USB using this tool - https://www.microsoft.com/en-gb/software-download/windows10 - it takes a while but you can do other things so don't really count this step as how long it takes to install Windows.

Boot from USB with windows install files on it > select drive to install to > Windows installs > 10 mins later you have a clean Windows install.

Thanks! That's similar to what I did the last time, and it moved my previous windows installation into another folder, and I had to reinstall all of my apps again and sign into them again. Then I was stuck with an old windows folder taking up space on the drive.

Also, is this the same windows installer that I would end up with when using the Windows 10 media creation tool online to create an installer USB thumb drive? I made an installer USB thumb drive a couple of weeks ago (I'm asking a stupid question here because I am reading and typing this on my Mac, and it wont open the link). I can't use my PC right now to check your procedure and link while my wife is watching the Olympics Ceremony on the very TV that I use for gaming on the PC.

alternative is create a Windows 10 install on a USB stick and boot into that and run MPT from there so you dont even have to touch your Windows install.
Or if you have a spare drive or even an external USB drive put a fresh copy of Windows 10 on it and boot to that then use that with MPT.

I had a questions about this recommendation here previously. I thought that MPT would "write SPPT" to the registry of the windows drive from which I am booted, and if I do this from another drive I wont be booted from the drive with the problems. Since nothing happens whenever I click "Write SPPT" I don't know if would get any options to select the drive to which it should write. Am I wrong and it writes this to the card somehow?
 

Deleted member 66701

D

Deleted member 66701

Thanks! That's similar to what I did the last time, and it moved my previous windows installation into another folder, and I had to reinstall all of my apps again and sign into them again.

Well yes, that is kind of the point in a clean windows install!

Then I was stuck with an old windows folder taking up space on the drive.

Only if you install it to the same partition (and you can delete the folder if you want to). Install to a separate partition and/or drive and you can select what windows install to boot from. I always have a bare minimum clean OS installed that I can use for testing.

Also, is this the same windows installer that I would end up with when using the Windows 10 media creation tool online to create an installer USB thumb drive?

Yes.
 
Soldato
Joined
31 Dec 2007
Posts
13,616
Location
The TARDIS, Wakefield, UK
I had a questions about this recommendation here previously. I thought that MPT would "write SPPT" to the registry of the windows drive from which I am booted

Yes

and if I do this from another drive I wont be booted from the (Windows install) drive with the problems.

Yes

Since nothing happens whenever I click "Write SPPT" I don't know if would get any options to select the drive to which it should write. Am I wrong and it writes this to the card somehow?

Writes to the Windows registry, so if you remove your original windows drive so your computer can not see it, and boot either from a drive with a fresh windows install or a fresh Windows 10 on a USB stick then
it will use the registry from these new drives ergo not using yours because you remove it :)
 
Associate
Joined
4 Jun 2021
Posts
77
Location
Rocky Mountains USA
Yes

Yes

Writes to the Windows registry, so if you remove your original windows drive so your computer can not see it, and boot either from a drive with a fresh windows install or a fresh Windows 10 on a USB stick then it will use the registry from these new drives ergo not using yours because you remove it :)

Thanks, I appreciate everyone's answers.

I'm sorry I sounded so dense. I knew that MPT should be writing changes to the Windows registry. So when I said previously that I didn't want to have to reinstall apps and remove my old windows folder, I was confused why people were telling me to instead create a new windows boot drive (SSD or USB) and run MPT from that. I thought maybe they were suggesting that I could do that to fix my MPT issue on my boot drive rather than doing a clean install. So I asked if "Write SPPT" was writing to somewhere else instead of the registry. People were just giving me other options that would not leave an "old windows" folder on my drive - helpful but not the end result I was praying for.

Unfortunately, what I really hoped for was a solution that did not require me to start over with configuring my PC by using a clean install of any kind, yet would let me up my power limit to 340-350 watts.

I have put so much of my time into getting my windows installation exactly the way that I wanted it - with all the apps that I wanted, and having all of my important shortcuts pinned to the start menu or task bar in just the right order that I wanted them (by category and how often I use them). I wanted to stay signed into all of my productivity apps and accounts (office, google, dropbox, one drive, etc), as well as multiple video and music streaming apps.

Starting over from scratch at this point would feel just like getting halfway through a game after many hours of effort, and being told that to complete the game I would have to reinstall the game and start over because a bug corrupted all of my save points - I might just quit playing the game after having wasted so much time (unless the game was extraordinarily fun). That's what happened to me when I played Animal crossing for months and my 1st Switch battery died during the 2 yr extended warranty period. Gamestop replaced it with a 2nd Gen Switch, but Nintendo could not restore my original Island (Nintendo didn't have that save/resore Island feature for the first 8-9 months the game was out). I lost most of my desire to play again - I recreated RacoonCity, but then never built it back up because the game was just too tedious to get back to where I was before.

Since I would not be using the suggested fresh SSD or USB boot drive to play my games, and because any successful MPT changes wouldn't fix my actual boot drive registry, it wouldn't help achieve my goal of not having to set up a computer again. I got confused and thought that maybe I was missing something in the suggestion. So, I asked this question a couple of times in different ways, because I didn't see the point to running MPT from a different windows boot drive unless it was writing SPPT somewhere else - It's not.

Basically - I didn't do a good job explaining that I was only looking for solutions that didn't require me to fresh install and re-install and re-sign into apps. I really appreciate all of the different suggestions. They would only help if I turned that new boot drive into my primary boot drive and re-installed my apps and games again. Editing the registry looks like the only fix to achieve my goal in the way that I'd like to achieve it - one that doesn't include doing a clean install and re-load all my apps. Any recommendations for a good, safe or stable registry editor to remove old GPU ID's? I haven't needed to do this kind of thing for over 15 years. I don't think that removing the Nvidea drivers for the GTX 1070 and GTX 1080 with DDU in safe mode will help, if they would still be in the registry with the older RT6700 as well. I guess I could see if DDU can also remove the AMD drivers too (I've only used it to remove one corrupt driver back in April), and I wonder if removing the drivers in DDU also removes them from the registry?

If I did proceed to clean install, just to up my power limit by 10-15%, the cost in my time may not be worth it (I'd have to screenshot what apps I installed and where I put my shortcuts before I start over, but at least all my passwords are saved in my encrypted Apple password Keychain so I can refer to that as I sign into everything).

However, I could live with the current 303W power limit as I already have great performance from my 6900XT in every way except with Ray Tracing. I'm getting 5-20 fps more than my son's RTX 3090 in many games without Ray Tracing on, but with RTX I get less than half of his fps. In 3D Mark, my son's RTX 3090 hits 67 fps in Ray Tracing benchmarks while I hit about 30 fps, which is below either of my monitor's ability to do VRR (I need to hit 48-60 fps to avoid artifacts and tearing). I was hoping that a higher power limit would increase fps in ray tracing and reduce how much I have to drop image quality to game at 4K without tearing.

Maybe as more games with ray tracing also incorporate FSR it will help me reach that fps goal with very little drop in image quality. That would certainly be better than running my games in 1440p at 120Hz on my 4K TV and letting the TV handle the upscaling. Both my 55" 4K TV and my Acer 32" 4K monitor, in 4K native, can only do 48-60Hz with variable refresh rate turned on. My Samsung TV has kind of a mix between HDMI 2.0 and 2.1, where it only supports HDMI 2.0 but adds Freesync capability to that. I'd need to see if my TV, which can do 1440p at 120Hz, also supports VRR in 1440p; but the panel is not native 1440p output. However, the TV's built-in upscaling from 1440p to the 4K panel's native 4K with my 6900XT driving it is not terrible, and it looks a lot better than upscaling from a 1080p source.
 
Last edited:
Associate
Joined
5 Aug 2017
Posts
1,057
Location
Cornwall
Thanks, I appreciate everyone's answers.

I'm sorry I sounded so dense. I knew that MPT should be writing changes to the Windows registry. So when I said previously that I didn't want to have to reinstall apps and remove my old windows folder, I was confused why people were telling me to instead create a new windows boot drive (SSD or USB) and run MPT from that. I thought maybe they were suggesting that I could do that to fix my MPT issue on my boot drive rather than doing a clean install. So I asked if "Write SPPT" was writing to somewhere else instead of the registry. People were just giving me other options that would not leave an "old windows" folder on my drive - helpful but not the end result I was praying for.

Unfortunately, what I really hoped for was a solution that did not require me to start over with configuring my PC by using a clean install of any kind, yet would let me up my power limit to 340-350 watts.

I have put so much of my time into getting my windows installation exactly the way that I wanted it - with all the apps that I wanted, and having all of my important shortcuts pinned to the start menu or task bar in just the right order that I wanted them (by category and how often I use them). I wanted to stay signed into all of my productivity apps and accounts (office, google, dropbox, one drive, etc), as well as multiple video and music streaming apps.

Starting over from scratch at this point would feel just like getting halfway through a game after many hours of effort, and being told that to complete the game I would have to reinstall the game and start over because a bug corrupted all of my save points - I might just quit playing the game after having wasted so much time (unless the game was extraordinarily fun). That's what happened to me when I played Animal crossing for months and my 1st Switch battery died during the 2 yr extended warranty period. Gamestop replaced it with a 2nd Gen Switch, but Nintendo could not restore my original Island (Nintendo didn't have that save/resore Island feature for the first 8-9 months the game was out). I lost most of my desire to play again - I recreated RacoonCity, but then never built it back up because the game was just too tedious to get back to where I was before.

Since I would not be using the suggested fresh SSD or USB boot drive to play my games, and because any successful MPT changes wouldn't fix my actual boot drive registry, it wouldn't help achieve my goal of not having to set up a computer again. I got confused and thought that maybe I was missing something in the suggestion. So, I asked this question a couple of times in different ways, because I didn't see the point to running MPT from a different windows boot drive unless it was writing SPPT somewhere else - It's not.

Basically - I didn't do a good job explaining that I was only looking for solutions that didn't require me to fresh install and re-install and re-sign into apps. I really appreciate all of the different suggestions. They would only help if I turned that new boot drive into my primary boot drive and re-installed my apps and games again. Editing the registry looks like the only fix to achieve my goal in the way that I'd like to achieve it - one that doesn't include doing a clean install and re-load all my apps. Any recommendations for a good, safe or stable registry editor to remove old GPU ID's? I haven't needed to do this kind of thing for over 15 years. I don't think that removing the Nvidea drivers for the GTX 1070 and GTX 1080 with DDU in safe mode will help, if they would still be in the registry with the older RT6700 as well. I guess I could see if DDU can also remove the AMD drivers too (I've only used it to remove one corrupt driver back in April), and I wonder if removing the drivers in DDU also removes them from the registry?

If I did proceed to clean install, just to up my power limit by 10-15%, the cost in my time may not be worth it (I'd have to screenshot what apps I installed and where I put my shortcuts before I start over, but at least all my passwords are saved in my encrypted Apple password Keychain so I can refer to that as I sign into everything).

However, I could live with the current 303W power limit as I already have great performance from my 6900XT in every way except with Ray Tracing. I'm getting 5-20 fps more than my son's RTX 3090 in many games without Ray Tracing on, but with RTX I get less than half of his fps. In 3D Mark, my son's RTX 3090 hits 67 fps in Ray Tracing benchmarks while I hit about 30 fps, which is below either of my monitor's ability to do VRR (I need to hit 48-60 fps to avoid artifacts and tearing). I was hoping that a higher power limit would increase fps in ray tracing and reduce how much I have to drop image quality to game at 4K without tearing.

Maybe as more games with ray tracing also incorporate FSR it will help me reach that fps goal with very little drop in image quality. That would certainly be better than running my games in 1440p at 120Hz on my 4K TV and letting the TV handle the upscaling. Both my 55" 4K TV and my Acer 32" 4K monitor, in 4K native, can only do 48-60Hz with variable refresh rate turned on. My Samsung TV has kind of a mix between HDMI 2.0 and 2.1, where it only supports HDMI 2.0 but adds Freesync capability to that. I'd need to see if my TV, which can do 1440p at 120Hz, also supports VRR in 1440p; but the panel is not native 1440p output. However, the TV's built-in upscaling from 1440p to the 4K panel's native 4K with my 6900XT driving it is not terrible, and it looks a lot better than upscaling from a 1080p source.
This is why I suggested just a purchase a cheap SSD. Remove all your existing drives and install windows in the machine on that SSD. Then run MPT, just a basic windows, chipset and Radeon drivers only. Once you've had a play take it out and go back to your current drives untouched. I guessing $20-30 or borrow a drive and zero damage to your current install.
 
Soldato
Joined
31 Dec 2007
Posts
13,616
Location
The TARDIS, Wakefield, UK
Thanks, I appreciate everyone's answers.

I'm sorry I sounded so dense. I knew that MPT should be writing changes to the Windows registry. So when I said previously that I didn't want to have to reinstall apps and remove my old windows folder, I was confused why people were telling me to instead create a new windows boot drive (SSD or USB) and run MPT from that. I thought maybe they were suggesting that I could do that to fix my MPT issue.

we were.

This is why I suggested just a purchase a cheap SSD. Remove all your existing drives and install windows in the machine on that SSD. Then run MPT, just a basic windows, chipset and Radeon drivers only. Once you've had a play take it out and go back to your current drives untouched. I guessing $20-30 or borrow a drive and zero damage to your current install.

We have already provided you with the answer a few times and Chud has said it again above. If MPT works with the vanilla basic Windows install you created then this proves your original Windows install is the problem. Then its upto you what you do as we cant help you any further our answer is scrap your existing Windows drive and create a new one. If you need help with MPT then go here

https://www.igorslab.de/community/forums/radeon-tweaker-group-red-bios-rebellion-team.62/
 
Caporegime
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
39,299
Location
Ireland
Better late than never then. ;)
So what’s the back story? Price, reasoning etc?

No real back story, just fed up waiting on stock and pricing keeps bouncing around, i intend to keep it for a few years so just went with this one. Would have preferred an asus LC card but they've priced even higher.
 
Associate
Joined
4 Jun 2021
Posts
77
Location
Rocky Mountains USA
This is why I suggested just a purchase a cheap SSD. Remove all your existing drives and install windows in the machine on that SSD. Then run MPT, just a basic windows, chipset and Radeon drivers only. Once you've had a play take it out and go back to your current drives untouched. I guessing $20-30 or borrow a drive and zero damage to your current install.

we were.



We have already provided you with the answer a few times and Chud has said it again above. If MPT works with the vanilla basic Windows install you created then this proves your original Windows install is the problem. Then its upto you what you do as we cant help you any further our answer is scrap your existing Windows drive and create a new one. If you need help with MPT then go here

https://www.igorslab.de/community/forums/radeon-tweaker-group-red-bios-rebellion-team.62/

Where I got confused was that I thought people were trying to tell me that the changes that I made with MPT on that drive would stick after I went back to my original drive. It didn't make sense to me, because that's not what they were saying. But it's what it sounded like and I got confused and needed clarification. I see now that it was just a troubleshooting step to rule things out, not fix my boot drive.
 
Back
Top Bottom