***The Vapers Lounge*** 2.0

[KnightStalker]

Ok guys, im getting more annoyed with my Squape RS with each day that passes, Temp control just wont work with it as the resistance jumps around too muchat rest, Squape has been cleaned, had a new pin and im not buying a new base to fix it - so im now looking at flogging it and replacing it with something different.

My question is whats a good atomiser similar to vape to the Squape which is more affordable than a Squape, like 30-40 pound, that works good with TC and gives good flavour and a decent cloud - Tank only as dripping is not my thing at all.

 

[balky12]

Ok guys, im getting more annoyed with my Squape RS with each day that passes, Temp control just wont work with it as the resistance jumps around too muchat rest, Squape has been cleaned, had a new pin and im not buying a new base to fix it - so im now looking at flogging it and replacing it with something different.

My question is whats a good atomiser similar to vape to the Squape which is more affordable than a Squape, like 30-40 pound, that works good with TC and gives good flavour and a decent cloud - Tank only as dripping is not my thing at all.

Do you lock the resistance at room temperature? (apologies, I'm not trying to teach you how to suck eggs)

 

[KnightStalker]

Do you lock the resistance at room temperature? (apologies, I'm not trying to teach you how to suck eggs)

Thats a fair point, untill about a week ago i had totally forgot about that feature, so started using it, but the vape was not the same and often went harsh and weak within a 10 min period, so its just starting to annoy me, shame really as the Squape is the best atty ive had to date, the B deck is just sublime.

(had a Rosev2, Kayfun 4, Lite, litev2, 3.1es, taifun from the high end)

 

[balky12]

Thats a fair point, untill about a week ago i had totally forgot about that feature, so started using it, but the vape was not the same and often went harsh and weak within a 10 min period, so its just starting to annoy me, shame really as the Squape is the best atty ive had to date, the B deck is just sublime.

(had a Rosev2, Kayfun 4, Lite, litev2, 3.1es, taifun from the high end)

Let's try and help. What coils you using? Metal? Coil type (micro/spaced/ Clapton) and resistance?

Also what mod are you using?

 

[KnightStalker]

Okie dokie, Hcigar VT40 v5 board, Wires i have 28awg Ni200, Titanium 26awg and NiFe 28awg. All of the above have been spaced coils 2.5mm to 3mm in diameter, resistance from 0.12/4 for the Ni200, 0.25 for the Titanium and similar resistance for the NiFe stuff.

Temp to around 210c or 390F and watts around 18watts. More often than not it hits temp protection so fast that the vapour is a wisp, and the other times its chucking the clouds not hitting temp protection and tasting foul.

Works perfectly fine with Kanthal but Temp control is where i want to be at, as i love the fact its stops any burning taste creeping in when the tank is low, which is key for the Squape as the windows are tiny and at the top.

 

[UKDTweak]

Looking to order some more wire having got my aromamizer today. (Damn being at work!)

For these coils what gauge wire do people use? I will be using titanium. (I assume people use dual coils?)

Normal dual coil
Twisted dual coil

Always wanted to try a fused Clapton coil, any recommendations?

I do have 24(0.4mm) and 26(0.5mm) gauge.

I only have TI in 24 and 26AWG, i used the 24awg for single coils, but now all i build is twisted wire coils using the 26awg, single or dual coils makes no difference, i still use the 26awg twisted.

For the Aromamizer, if you want better battery life and use low watts, then do two coils using the 24awg TI, if you want to push higher watts go with the dual twisted 26awg TI.

 

[balky12]

Okie dokie, Hcigar VT40 v5 board, Wires i have 28awg Ni200, Titanium 26awg and NiFe 28awg. All of the above have been spaced coils 2.5mm to 3mm in diameter, resistance from 0.12/4 for the Ni200, 0.25 for the Titanium and similar resistance for the NiFe stuff.

Temp to around 210c or 390F and watts around 18watts. More often than not it hits temp protection so fast that the vapour is a wisp, and the other times its chucking the clouds not hitting temp protection and tasting foul.

Works perfectly fine with Kanthal but Temp control is where i want to be at, as i love the fact its stops any burning taste creeping in when the tank is low, which is key for the Squape as the windows are tiny and at the top.

**Think the Hcigar VT40 v5 only supports Ni200?** - if wrong follow the below. Or replace my Titanium suggestion with a Ni200 build.

Right unfortunately I have no experience with either the md or the squape. But try 5 coils on the Ti 26awg round 2.5mm. Should be around 0.18 0.2ohms? Spaced.

I use a new wicking method that involves fluffing the cotton out before rolling it. You use a lot more cotton than you think you should be but it works. (Scottish roll wicking method).

Then soak then wick, put the squape together. Fill it then lave it for ~10 minutes. I use the IPV D2 and use 230oC and 30 Joules.

Obviously while you wait you can set up the mod, temperature, make sure it's set on the Titanium setting, etc.

After attach the atty and lock resistance right away (new coil up/down isn't it?)

Should be good to go.

 

[balky12]

I only have TI in 24 and 26AWG, i used the 24awg for single coils, but now all i build is twisted wire coils using the 26awg, single or dual coils makes no difference, i still use the 26awg twisted.

For the Aromamizer, if you want better battery life and use low watts, then do two coils using the 24awg TI, if you want to push higher watts go with the dual twisted 26awg TI.

Thanks dude

 

[j.col]

Picked up an aromamiser rdta on potv. This thing is bonkers for a tank. Only running it at 0.5 ohms as I have no low gauge Kanthal but it still chucks out clouds and still has good flavour.

 

[Rilot]

Okie dokie, Hcigar VT40 v5 board, Wires i have 28awg Ni200, Titanium 26awg and NiFe 28awg. All of the above have been spaced coils 2.5mm to 3mm in diameter, resistance from 0.12/4 for the Ni200, 0.25 for the Titanium and similar resistance for the NiFe stuff.

Temp to around 210c or 390F and watts around 18watts. More often than not it hits temp protection so fast that the vapour is a wisp, and the other times its chucking the clouds not hitting temp protection and tasting foul.

Works perfectly fine with Kanthal but Temp control is where i want to be at, as i love the fact its stops any burning taste creeping in when the tank is low, which is key for the Squape as the windows are tiny and at the top.

VT40 only officially supports ni200. You can run titanium in it but you will have to drop the temperature right down to around 170C or it will taste burned.
For ni200 I would be running 230C or more on the VT40.

 

[pgi947]

2a zip charge on the vs 200 is quite honestly stupidly quick, 29% before I went for a shower, half hour later it's 75%.

E: This is how my wire twisting went....

 

[adolf hamster]

Well, burned out my first coil, 2 months for the first, so probably go through the next in 2 days knowing how these things go.

Also, have some interesting stuff in the post

 

[D D Danneh]

Welp, think I'm at pretty much endgame

I caved and ordered an Aeronaut RDA, which arrived today, very nice piece of kit! Finally something I can fit a fused clapton in, so obviously I had to build one, and what a monster I built!

Two 0.6mm wires fused together using 0.21mm wire. 5 wraps at 3.5mm inner diameter comes out at 0.22ohms, pretty much exactly what I wanted (keeps the Hotcig LiPo at it's max continuous 30A rating even at 200W). For my first wire build using a drill it went pretty well, a bit of stopping and starting to get the wrap right, and only half the wire I made was really usable, but heck, it's done! I can only take a 1-1.5 second pull on 200W, else the wick can't keep up. Below 100W it's all VG and no flavour, at 140W there's a bit of spitting, but at 120W, no spitting and incredible flavour. And the juice well holds enough for a good 10 pulls.

 

[Merlin5]

Hey guys, regarding the RBA deck of my subtank mini not making contact with my mod. I went back to the Liberty Flights shop today and the guy working there (the manager) put it on his mod and it fired. He said the issue was my mod and that I need to get a pin under the centre pin of my Sigelei 50w and bring it up about 2mm. Is it possible to do that or do I risk breaking it? Oddly though, I went into the shop yesterday as well and a woman who worked there tried it on her mod and it wouldn't fire. So I don't know if it's an issue with my mod, or an issue with the RBA only working with some mods because of it's shorter pin.

I never discussed it enough to find out if I have an old version, the guy immediately said it was my mod and didn't seem too interested to delve further, because he obviously didn't want to have to refund, plus he said once the RBA has been used it's out of warranty. It was only used because I'd primed it with juice. I won't be buying anything from there again anyway, don't think they're very good tbh.

 

[D D Danneh]

Hey guys, regarding the RBA deck of my subtank mini not making contact with my mod. I went back to the Liberty Flights shop today and the guy working there (the manager) put it on his mod and it fired. He said the issue was my mod and that I need to get a pin under the centre pin of my Sigelei 50w and bring it up about 2mm. Is it possible to do that or do I risk breaking it? Oddly though, I went into the shop yesterday as well and a woman who worked there tried it on her mod and it wouldn't fire. So I don't know if it's an issue with my mod, or an issue with the RBA only working with some mods because of it's shorter pin.

Pretty sure the issue is with the subtank, seems to be fairly common. I wouldn't go messing with the contact on your Sigelei, at best it's a temporary fix, at worst you'll render it useless. Someone a few posts/pages ago posted a picture where they have wire coming out of the bottom pin to help make the connection, however this could be dangerous since the current is passing through that wire. I found this thread and this image that seem like a good fix. Check out what gotpardon says in there. Unfortunately I don't have the same tank to test, but I hope this helps.

 

[Frozennova]

Just placed a fast tech order to scratch an inch I've had for a while, a Sat22 as genesis attys have intrigued me for aa while and with the Aromomazier being a great lung hitting tank I've not yet found anything that works for me for mouth to lung, I've tried the Lemo2 and goblin mini but find they tickle my throat with the airflow closed right off

 

[Frozennova]

Welp, think I'm at pretty much endgame

I caved and ordered an Aeronaut RDA, which arrived today, very nice piece of kit! Finally something I can fit a fused clapton in, so obviously I had to build one, and what a monster I built!

Two 0.6mm wires fused together using 0.21mm wire. 5 wraps at 3.5mm inner diameter comes out at 0.22ohms, pretty much exactly what I wanted (keeps the Hotcig LiPo at it's max continuous 30A rating even at 200W). For my first wire build using a drill it went pretty well, a bit of stopping and starting to get the wrap right, and only half the wire I made was really usable, but heck, it's done! I can only take a 1-1.5 second pull on 200W, else the wick can't keep up. Below 100W it's all VG and no flavour, at 140W there's a bit of spitting, but at 120W, no spitting and incredible flavour. And the juice well holds enough for a good 10 pulls.

Continuous discharge rating of the battery is largely irrelevant for the DNA200, the board is internally fused for a max 23amp input, but the output is firmware limited to 500 so it's or until you start to build at 0.08ohm or below you need to be concerned about amp limits, and even then the board will limit the wattage to keep you below 50A

 

[Twirlywoos]

Welp, think I'm at pretty much endgame

I caved and ordered an Aeronaut RDA, which arrived today, very nice piece of kit! Finally something I can fit a fused clapton in, so obviously I had to build one, and what a monster I built!

Two 0.6mm wires fused together using 0.21mm wire. 5 wraps at 3.5mm inner diameter comes out at 0.22ohms, pretty much exactly what I wanted (keeps the Hotcig LiPo at it's max continuous 30A rating even at 200W). For my first wire build using a drill it went pretty well, a bit of stopping and starting to get the wrap right, and only half the wire I made was really usable, but heck, it's done! I can only take a 1-1.5 second pull on 200W, else the wick can't keep up. Below 100W it's all VG and no flavour, at 140W there's a bit of spitting, but at 120W, no spitting and incredible flavour. And the juice well holds enough for a good 10 pulls.

I rate that RDA over the Velocity any day of the week. Nice build.

 

[Merlin5]

Pretty sure the issue is with the subtank, seems to be fairly common. I wouldn't go messing with the contact on your Sigelei, at best it's a temporary fix, at worst you'll render it useless. Someone a few posts/pages ago posted a picture where they have wire coming out of the bottom pin to help make the connection, however this could be dangerous since the current is passing through that wire. I found this thread and this image that seem like a good fix. Check out what gotpardon says in there. Unfortunately I don't have the same tank to test, but I hope this helps.

Thanks, that looks like a good fix but I'm not clear on exactly what he did.
I've marked a couple of things in colour. In yellow, I presume that's the DIY ring he's talking about. On my RBA deck it doesn't seem like I can pull anything out or unscrew anything to make the pin longer.

 

[Frozennova]

Merlin, with the RBA deck in the Base try pushing the center of the 510 pin inwards to make sure they are making good contact, this sorted out my dodgy Subtank Mini