The Box Tree, Ilkley, West Yorkshire. Lost its Michelin Star last year, a couple of years after the long-time head chef Simon Gueller left. He came back because the loss 'awoke' something in him. Quaint setting and decor, a little old-fashioned but not overly so. It was quiet, the only other diners (we could see) were a loud table of four seated right next to us. We had the Gourmand Menu, I had the wine flight, and she drove
Canapes served in the lounge next to a Yorkshire G&T. Parmesan sable with goats cheese, chive and onion at the front, and squid ink crisp with cod roe emulsion, asparagus emulsion, and roe powder. Both delish, with the cod roe tipping the scales of flavour and winning by a head:
Next, at the table and bathed in evening sun pouring through the window, the amuse bouche, cucumber jelly with pickled cucumber balls and smoked salmon, cauliflower foam/spume/spaff/whevs, and dried cod roe powder. This was surprisingly delish and had lots of textures and flavours which worked best when you had a bit of everything. I'm not normally big on foam but it really maxed out the cauliflower flavour. Nice:
The starter was a heritage tomato salad with feuille de brique pastry tube and parmesan custard with vinegar sorbet, lovage, sorrel, and sea truffle (the little black splodges). Amazing balance of sweet, sour, and saltiness. Crunch, softness, and creaminess. Perfect salad in every way. Amazing. Came with a Gewurtztraminer from SW France (unusually, normally from NE France/Germany). Dark yellow because of three years conditioning (not in oak) but very good choice with the salad. More minerally than normal Gewurz. Note the fresh sourdough in the back with marmite butter and local butter. Nom.
They called it 'intermediate' and I call it the fish course. Scallop with apple and truffle, ham beignet, apple gel, and celeriac puree. The ham was fantastic but could have been a bit more generous with it, like the scallop. The missus always says they want to leave you wanting more. I certainly always do. Tasted fabulous, although the truffle was a little underwhelming. I suppose it must be from Aus at this time of year. Came with a Viognier-Roussanne from SA, which had light oaking and was peppery and floral. Very good dish:
The main was salt-aged beef fillet with marrow-crusted cheek, mushrooms, onions, and cabbage. UNBELIEVABLE. AMAZING. OMG. How can cabbage be so good? The beef was very tasty for fillet and the (again minimal) cheek with marrow was heavenly. The mushrooms were fab, cep puree, braised morel, and tiny pickled japanese things. The onions were lightly roasted. Served with a fabulous Malbec/Cab Sauv (75/25) from Argentina, which was classy and fruity with no woodiness. Can not recommend more highly.
Pre-dessert was for palate-cleansing. Apple jelly with apple chunks, calvados granita (smashing flavour) and a beautiful mint creme fraiche. Booyah, brap, etc.
Dessert was a mango souffle with lime zest, served with a tangy pash fruit sauce. Souffle was fluffy and well-riisen. Came with a not-sickly-sweet dessert wine from Portugal (based on Riesling!) which matched perfectly. I prefer fruity puds rather than over-sweet ones, so I was in heaven the two on this menu:
Had coffee and armagnac (at the sommelier's recommendation), a high-end Tenareze (usually considered a poor man's armagnac) which was eye-wateringly good. They brought chocolates from a cigar box, and she did the arrangement, I promise (even though I would have if she hadn't). We had already eaten a few by this time:
In summary, all the dishes were 9.5/10 or better. The best were the salad starter and the beef main. Both were perfect. The rest were just a tiny notch down somehow, maybe 9.5/10. They will surely get their star back at some point. The staff were exceptional and the sommelier was French and knew everything. We could have talked for hours. Not the most expensive tasting menu at £80 and the wine is worth it at £45. We will be going back.
That food looks absolutely amazing. I pretty much never venture up to that area, but if I'm ever going to be passing by, I hope that chef is still there.
