Which filament

Soldato
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Back with a Vengeance.
Update update. Thanks to advice from you guys i managed to successfully print the nut and bolt test pieces. They're not 100% perfect but they're a good starting point. As per your advice I slowed print speed for the first layer to 15mm from 20 and upped the bed temp to 70 degrees. The filament I'm using suggests 40-55 degrees for the bed so I'm unsure why i needed to goto 70 to make it work.
Now for a few questions.

If I level my bed with a 0.1mm feeler gauge does that mean I have to set z offset to -0.1?

Am I correct that the printer itself contains no settings at all and all relevant values are contained in the gcode the slicer generates?

Should I manually heat up the bed and nozzle first or is it OK to just go power on then straight to print from tf card?
 
Soldato
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Update update. Thanks to advice from you guys i managed to successfully print the nut and bolt test pieces. They're not 100% perfect but they're a good starting point. As per your advice I slowed print speed for the first layer to 15mm from 20 and upped the bed temp to 70 degrees. The filament I'm using suggests 40-55 degrees for the bed so I'm unsure why i needed to goto 70 to make it work.
Now for a few questions.

If I level my bed with a 0.1mm feeler gauge does that mean I have to set z offset to -0.1?

Am I correct that the printer itself contains no settings at all and all relevant values are contained in the gcode the slicer generates?

Should I manually heat up the bed and nozzle first or is it OK to just go power on then straight to print from tf card?


I use a 80gsm A4 paper.
My hotend is set to 120c.

Try to print this https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2987803

Have you checked all the gantry's are tight and the hotend is also tight with no movement?
Does the bed move up\down\left\right. Has it got concentric nuts? if so make sure the wheels are not to tight.

This is the best site to get your printer runninggreat https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#intro
 
Soldato
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20 Oct 2002
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5,553
First up, I really appreciate your advice. I'm rapidly losing patience with it (the printer, not your help. Lol). Only two successful prints so far, a whistle and a benchy. I ran the chep gcode to level the bed in 5 points and used a 0.1 feeler gauge.

Sometimes during heat up the filament coils up onto itself rather than extruding straight down.

If filament curls up when heating before print its usually a block.


Z Offset video -

 
Soldato
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9 Jan 2016
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Anycubic filament is good and a 1kg roll for £16-25 is pretty decent, But then I own a anycubic branded 3D printer, so I have only even sticking to same brand, but it is of good quality though, just too bad I have a mega zero 2.0 with manual leveling that vibrates itself out of line lol, so any material would be hit & miss for me.

I guess the material will be as good as the printer can do with it
 
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