Indeedgoing mostly SPS dominated with a zoa garden and a few LPS
I have a fairly large zoa garden with hammers at the other side of my tank. I get large rocks with zoas for about £40 locally. Hammers 40-60
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- Thread starter Malt_Vinegar
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I have a fairly large zoa garden with hammers at the other side of my tank. I get large rocks with zoas for about £40 locally. Hammers 40-60
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Very impressed with Pets @ Home in Crewe.
All tanks perfectly clear, well looked after fish, good prices too for common stuff such as guppies, mollies, Angels, Octi's
An the lady serving knew her stuff and happy told a guy who had a fish tank in his hand and wanted to buy fish (his 1st ever) that we could not and how to go about it.
So good, I picked up a couple more Octi's for my 350l community tank help with the algea
All tanks perfectly clear, well looked after fish, good prices too for common stuff such as guppies, mollies, Angels, Octi's
An the lady serving knew her stuff and happy told a guy who had a fish tank in his hand and wanted to buy fish (his 1st ever) that we could not and how to go about it.
So good, I picked up a couple more Octi's for my 350l community tank help with the algea
Just a little update. Finally got my BBA issue under control. Combination of ilmiting my lighting and minimising food waste (not overfeeding) as well as overdosing with Seachem Flourish Excel has done the trick. So thanks to everyone's input as it's almost gone after putting up with it for well over a year.
Was able to pinpoint root cause to be high phosphate levels. 5 ppm. Tap water is coming out at 2ppm.
Just a few queries.
Now BBA is almost gone. Should I stop dosing with Seachem Flourish Excel completely or should this still be part of my daily regiment? Plants seems to be growing well with it. Just worried that it will affecting my fish's health long term.
Been using Seachem phosguard to lower phosphate level as cannister media but never quite managing to get phosphate water levels.down to zero. Best is 2ppm. Again I don't think I will ever keep be able keep it to zero because after weekly water change it just going to ramp up again right? What the best way to manage phosphate levels long term?
Was able to pinpoint root cause to be high phosphate levels. 5 ppm. Tap water is coming out at 2ppm.
Just a few queries.
Now BBA is almost gone. Should I stop dosing with Seachem Flourish Excel completely or should this still be part of my daily regiment? Plants seems to be growing well with it. Just worried that it will affecting my fish's health long term.
Been using Seachem phosguard to lower phosphate level as cannister media but never quite managing to get phosphate water levels.down to zero. Best is 2ppm. Again I don't think I will ever keep be able keep it to zero because after weekly water change it just going to ramp up again right? What the best way to manage phosphate levels long term?
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Good job on the algae.
Just be careful with the phosphate, plants actually need phosphate so having zero is bad and will likely cause algae. If your dosing a complete fertiliser then it will contain phosphate. I wouldn’t worry about it, the current thinking is that it doesn’t actually cause algae growth.
I’d try slowly reducing the excel and see what happens.
Just be careful with the phosphate, plants actually need phosphate so having zero is bad and will likely cause algae. If your dosing a complete fertiliser then it will contain phosphate. I wouldn’t worry about it, the current thinking is that it doesn’t actually cause algae growth.
I’d try slowly reducing the excel and see what happens.
I haven't been following too closely, but assuming that you aren't injecting CO2 then yes keep up with the liquid supplement
Yes just to clarify tropical tank with Fluval 307 cannister filter. Nothing fancy supplements other than what @b0rn2sk8 suggested with plant fertilizer which has helped the plants immensely. I do weekly 50% water changes and other than use Seachem Prime and Phosguard, Nothing else is added other than maintenance.
One thing though is my 2 Pepper Cory recently died not from anything in the water but they are extremely skittish (even walking past they would go crazy) and both deaths resulted them zooming high speeds crashing into wood or rocks which end up injuring themselves and resulted them dying from internal bleeding or a external wound. I have done everything to try and not frightening them but couldnt remember this behavior ever before with keeping Cory Cats. I ended up upping to 8 thinking large number would make them feel safer but their nervous energy just spreads to them all. I think perhaps when we gravel vac they get really frightened so not a lot i can do
. Is this behaviour common with just Peppers or all Corys?I’ve had bronze Corys in the past and they were the complete opposite of what you describe. Completely un-phased by anything going on in or around the tank.
I know there are some that can be skittish though but I didn’t think peppers were one of them.
I know there are some that can be skittish though but I didn’t think peppers were one of them.
Soldato
Yes just to clarify tropical tank with Fluval 307 cannister filter. Nothing fancy supplements other than what @b0rn2sk8 suggested with plant fertilizer which has helped the plants immensely. I do weekly 50% water changes and other than use Seachem Prime and Phosguard, Nothing else is added other than maintenance.
One thing though is my 2 Pepper Cory recently died not from anything in the water but they are extremely skittish (even walking past they would go crazy) and both deaths resulted them zooming high speeds crashing into wood or rocks which end up injuring themselves and resulted them dying from internal bleeding or a external wound. I have done everything to try and not frightening them but couldnt remember this behavior ever before with keeping Cory Cats. I ended up upping to 8 thinking large number would make them feel safer but their nervous energy just spreads to them all. I think perhaps when we gravel vac they get really frightened so not a lot i can do
My pandas are like that, panicking and zooming off, bumping into things on the way.
Was thinking to get more but get bronze's instead but was concerned they would adapt the same behaviour. Whenever i try to look or even watch at them at the tank they would just hide. Very hard to enjoy them when they wont let you see them. I have put in a lot of extra cover and plants which has helped them but not me
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Soldato
This.
Peppered Corydoras are cool water fish, most people in the UK could keep them in unheated tanks in their living quarters and they would be more than fine, IIRC they have been found in 5C water in the wild. Very different water temperature requirements than say Corydoras sterbai, which you probably wouldn't want their tank to drop under approx 20C for too long during the winter.
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Which tank ?
I didn't know they prefer cooler waters. I have a plug on thermostat that stick in the water inside the tank. I keep the temp plum in the green zone so 23 or so. Should I try lowering a little? I have to make sure the other fishes are ok too. I only have guppies and 2 Otto's now. Stockwise little low so going to get some cardinals
After the lockdown thinking to upgrade my 100l tank to to 180l and remove my medium/small sized gravel substrate to small finer gravel. Can't decide whether I should get Fluval 180 Vincena or Juwel 180 Vision. Both tank are the same size wise but fluval have their custom holes for the pipes at the bottom which is concerning If things went wrong. Build quality about the same right?
I went for a Jewel cabinet and a 240L rimless tank last year. Worked out much cheaper than buying the set as you get crappy filters, heaters, etc included with them.
The holes are probably for a sump. Though I don't see them on the images. That is the best way to filter a tank, but the biggest flood risk
The holes are probably for a sump. Though I don't see them on the images. That is the best way to filter a tank, but the biggest flood risk
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